A B O U T

An exceptionally rare and breathtaking 1954 Mary Black Original, this Paris-influenced cocktail dress exemplifies the height of mid-century American couture. Featured in a period advertisement that described the design as “Black French Chantilly lace over white silk organza and tulle”, this exact dress model is a jewel of the early 1950s New York fashion scene—sold at luxury retailers such as Marshall Field’s, whose elegant label remains intact inside the gown. Meticulously fashioned in rich black French Chantilly lace, the dress floats over layers of pale blush-toned silk organza, tulle, and a built-in petticoat foundation to achieve the unmistakable New Look silhouette: a sculpted, nipped waist and a full, swirling midi-length skirt. The lace itself is exceptionally fine—delicate, scrolling, and dimensional—exactly the quality one expects from garments produced in Mary Black’s East 56th Street atelier.

The bodice is masterfully cut with a romantic scalloped portrait neckline, dipping to an elegant off-shoulder line, and fitted with three-quarter sleeves trimmed in matching scalloped lace. The interior reveals couture-level hand finishing, including the original waist stay, meticulous seaming, and a hand-tacked understructure that preserves the dress’s sculptural shape. A metal zipper at the back completes the classic 1950s construction.

This is a museum-worthy example of early-1950s luxury evening wear—seductive, feminine, and engineered with an artisan’s touch. Mary Black pieces rarely surface, and examples documented in contemporary advertisements are even more elusive. In excellent condition, clean and ready to wear. 

M E A S U R E M E N T S *

Bust: up to 34"

Waist: up to 26"

Hips: open

Total Length: 45"

Fits like a small 

Label: Mary Black Original 
Material: French Chantilly lace, taffeta lining, netting

Condition: excellent, freshly dry cleaned and ready to wear. Minor signs of wear typical of age. Original zipper has been replaced with a matching metal zipper. 

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All of our pieces are thoroughly inspected and repaired by our in house professional seamstress prior to shipping to ensure your garment is in ready to wear condition upon arrival. 

*Please compare measurements to a garment you currently own to ensure proper fit! Please note: most of our pieces are clipped to fit our dress forms (bust: 34"; waist: 23").


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